One night, traveling alone in France, I arrived back in Paris, tired from a long day of travel. As I emerged from Gare St. Lazare into the darkness, across the street, a #27 bus, lit up like a beacon, waited. I ran and hopped on, so happy for the safe and comfortable ride back to my hotel in the fifth arrondissement, the student/Latin quarter.

That night, I felt grateful for my Parisian friend, Marie-Claire, who taught me to ride the bus in Paris.

About a decade had passed since she announced to me, as we strolled down Blvd. St. Michel, “I am going to teach you to ride the bus.”

“The bus?” I answered, a bit bewildered. I was pretty good at the metro, I thought.

“Yes! You can see all the sights of Paris as you travel, you don’t have to trapse down and up all those stairs in the metro and you won’t be stuck in the stuffy darkness down there.”

Okay, I thought. This could be an adventure.

We headed to the nearest bus stop, and she pointed out the maps, which show the routes of the busses that stop there.

Wow, I thought. This seems easy.

Bus tickets are the same as metro tickets, so, the next day, I bought tickets at a metro station, then chose a bus route to take me to the Musée d’Orsay. The Seine sparkled outside the windows of the bus on the way, then I enjoyed the sights along Boulevard St. Germain as I headed back.

I like to walk in Paris, so started the custom of strolling along, discovering hidden treasures: a small boutique to explore, a beautiful old church to sit in and breathe in all the centuries of prayers, a café to enjoy lunch or a drink.

Then, when I grew tired, I’d look at the bus routes on the bus stop maps and find one that headed back in the direction of my hotel. Voilà. A wonderful day of sightseeing, on foot and through the windows of the bus.

As I traveled on the bus, I could see the names of the arrondissements on all the buildings we passed by. That’s how I discovered how Paris is laid out. The word ‘arrondissement’ comes from the verb ‘arrondir’, which means to circle like a snail and that is what the arrondissements do. Starting with the first, considered the ‘heart of Paris’ and going to the 20th, each one has its own distinct flavor and culture, as they wrap around each other in a circle.

Another advantage in taking the bus is that you are less likely to be the victim of a pickpocket. Everything is clear and bright inside and there are fewer crowds. I realized this last summer when my husband and I took the metro from a train station in Paris; it seemed easier, but as we waited to board the crowded metro, someone reached into his backpack. Luckily, they didn’t get much, but still, that has never happened to me on the bus.

I feel comfortable in the fifth arrondissement in Paris, and when I visit my friends in Normandy, the #27 bus feels like an old friend as it ferries me from Blvd. St. Michel across Paris to the Gare St. Lazare and the direct train to Caen.

That night, after my trip back on the bus and to the Latin Quarter, I sat at my favorite Pizzeria and toasted both my friend Marie-Claire and the bus with a glass of red wine as I enjoyed my delicious pizza.

A Few Tips for Riding the Bus:

You can buy a “carnet” of 10 tickets good for the bus or metro, for €17.35 on the Navigo Easy card. Or use the Bonjour RATP app. Individual tickets cost €2.50 each and can be bought at a Metro station.

At the bus stop, signal the driver to stop, then wait for people to get off before you get on. Greet the driver and validate your ticket or pass on the machine near the driver.

Watch the bus route on the map on the wall or on your app, so you will know when you are close to your stop. Push the red button to tell the driver you would like to get off at the next stop.

The bus is usually quiet, so don’t talk on your cell phone or have loud conversations. Save those for somewhere private.

Pat yourself on the back for learning something new and enjoy your sight-seeing tour as you discover the delights of Paris, traveling from place to place.

Website: https://www.ratp.fr/en/

Bus Map: https://www.ratp.fr/en/plan-bus

Bonjour RATP app: https://www.bonjour-ratp.fr/en/

Taking the Bus in Paris, An Undiscovered Delightful Way to See the City…

A Few Tips for Riding the Bus:

My Paris Neighborhood